From Yakutsk to the Aldan River
Across Siberia to America - Part 8.
The further adventures of Khvostov and Davydov. For the previous installment, with links to earlier ones, look here:
Now well into July (and remember, too, that the Russians still used the old Julian calendar, so the first date in this installment, July 10, 1802, would have been, in our reckoning, July 22). They still had hundreds of versts to cover, across difficult terrain – the Stanavoi Ridge – to reach Okhotsk. At that port, they would have to rig and crew a ship, and then sail it to Alaska, all before the close of the very short North Pacific sailing season. They didn’t wait around in Yakutsk, and from Davydov’s description of the place, they probably wouldn’t have wanted to, anyway.
As you’ll see, they set out on a well-established, if difficult, route, carrying their goods by means of a train of pack horses, with a Cossack guide and interpreter (although, as Davydov explains, the designation “Cossack” had a somewhat different meaning in eastern Siberia than on the steppe farther west.) Davydov gives some figures as to what the horses carried – remember that a pood was about 36 pounds.
In this segment, Davydov gives a description of the Yakuts’ summer yurts. They seem to resemble the conical lodges of the American Plains peoples (though the Yakuts covered theirs with birch bark, rather than skins). The similarity of the Yakut and Plains conical dwellings, as well as of their birch-bark canoes (Davydov described the Yakuts’ canoes on the way to Yakutsk), are interesting.
DAVYDOV’S NARRATIVE (Cont’d)
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Yakutsk. Occurrences on the journey. Arrival at Okhotsk.
10 July.
At about midnight we put into Yakutsk, got on a boat, crossed to the right side of the Lena and, having entered a small cove, we stopped at four Yakut Yurts. This is where the post horses are. They call this place Yarmarka or Yarmonka [marketplace]. It is like any other [post] where they keep post horses along the Okhotsk road, or just stop to feed them. But there is neither a settlement, nor a village, nor anything in any respect like what we call a marketplace, surely.
11 July.
We stopped to wait for the Cossack, who was to serve on the road as the Translator of the Yakut language, for it is very rare for a Yakut to understand the Russian language. On account of this the Russian residents of the Yakutsk region with regular trade relations with the Yakuts almost all speak their language. By the name of the Siberian Cossacks, we should mean not our Cossacks, but a brigade under the authority of the Mayor. They descended from the Cossacks, trappers, and hunters who conquered Siberia. All these people called themselves Cossacks, which name their descendants have kept. It is a hereditary brigade, which keeps it in existence, although it has greatly diminished.
It is known that the Stanavoi ridge, proceeding from the Chinese border to the Northeast, runs along the strip of land separating Yakutsk from Okhotsk and extends about 400 versts in width along the way. The mountains of this ridge are extremely high, stony, and barren, presenting many abysses on the way and making it completely impossible to travel by carts. For this reason between Yakutsk and Okhotsk, people usually travel on horseback, and also carry all goods and burdens on pack horses. On a pack horse instead of a saddle they place a piece of wood, reinforced on each side by a stick protruding from it. From these they hang bales, called here myestams, [placements might be a decent translation –JT.] balancing the burden. These are from 2 to 3 poods, and very rarely more. They are attached to the piece of wood and under the horse's belly with ropes, which makes up a full pack. Sometimes if the bales are very light they place an added 10 to 20 pounds, which they call prikladka [butt]. They tie together from 10 to 5 pack horses, sometimes less, in this way: a rope is tied around the front horse’s neck, called Kantyess, then to the tail of the same horse and to the bridle of the horse behind it. Several such horses tied together are called a bunch, which is usually led by a Yakut riding horseback.
All things heavier than 3-1/2, but lighter than 12 or 15, poods, can be delivered on pack horses in this way: to the backs of two horses placed one behind the other, a kind of stretcher is hung, to which that burden is tied, and these two horses are led by a special Yakut. This is called riding the pitch [as in, pitching of a boat]. People also travel on them, if they are not able to ride horseback on such a highway. But, the “pitch,” due to its inconvenience, is very rarely used, and therefore heavy iron things, such as anchors and so forth, are usually chopped into pieces, and then are welded back together in Okhotsk.
In earlier times, large loads were delivered this way: from Yakutsk to the Aldan River (333 versts) by sleigh [in winter], then in the spring on boats up the rivers Aldan, Maye, and Yudom to Yudomsk pier. From there, overland by dogs, or otherwise, with the greatest difficulty to the Plotbishcha (so called because wagons and rafts [ploti] were built there) on the Urak River (75 versts from the Yudomsk cross [we will reach this place in a later installment]), from which they were floated down to the sea. But this mode of transportation, which, in addition to the difficulty and length of time involved, usually incurred large losses, has been completely changed.
As far as the spine of the mountain ridge (around 300 versts from Yakutsk) there are many hayfields everywhere, so this land is inhabited by the Yakuts, and here there are established at various distances stations for changing post horses. For 670 versts after that, travelers can only change horses twice, and sometimes only once, for there are no dwellings of any kind.
At 9pm we mounted our horses and set off on our journey. With us were our two men, a Cossack, and three Yakuts, who led 11 pack horses. At the 5th verst from Yarmonka, we crossed a bridge over the river Kumakhtakh, which completely dries up in summer, and flows only in the spring, or after heavy rains; but a few years ago the water in the Lena was so high that the floodwaters approached directly to the Kumakhtakh mountain (at the bottom of which the river flows), and here they were discharged. Riding across the bridge, we climbed the Kumakhtakh ridge, a Yakut word meaning sandy. I must say here that all place names that I will mention henceforth will be of the Yakut language. From this ridge begins a forest, which continues almost uninterrupted to the sea of Okhotsk. The forest is for the most part spruce, larch, and sometimes pine, birch and poplar. There are also different kinds of shrubs. On Kumakhtakh we saw hanging a lot of hair from horse manes or tails. This is called Bellyakh, that is, a gift, which means a sacrifice offered to the spirit of that place for allowing one to safely climb the mountain. The Yakuts do this for every difficult and steep climb, so a horse, after going several times to Okhotsk, has almost no mane and tail. The Yakut call their god Boenai, and the Russians call it Tanara. Halfway down the road we crossed the ford across the Sola River, which flows into the Lena. At 2 o'clock in the morning we arrived at the Tolbyakh-takh station, which is so called after the lake on which it stands. From Yarmonka to here is 22 versts.
12 July.
Here we rested, and in the morning we set off further in spite of the extreme heat.
Between the Lena and Amga rivers there is no flowing water (excluding the river Sola), so we were obliged to drink the very warm and bad water from a lake. I was assured that you can get good water out of the lakes in this way: At the depth of the lake, you should lower a bottle with a closed cork, to which you tie a string and pull it when the bottle is at the bottom, from which it will fill. They say that the water at the bottom is always cold because in the spring the ice covering the lake sinks to the bottom and does not melt. However, I have not been able to test this. From Tolbyakh-takh to Temilyu is 15 versts.
All the stations from Yakutsk to Aldana are named for the lake or river at which they stand, and consist of no more than two or three yurts. When we asked for a drink at the station, they gave us Undan, made from sour milk with water. This is a pretty good drink, especially in hot weather.
Yakut men and women almost all smoke and sniff tobacco, both sexes are equally untidy and do little to dress up, especially those that are not rich.
13 July.
We covered 30 versts to Chuchigisk.
In addition to two winter yurts, there were three for summer. The description of the first we have
already seen; the summer ones were made this way: several long stakes are tied at the top, covered with stitched pieces of birch bark, and long stakes are again placed so that the bark is not blown away by the wind. This yurt has the shape of a Cone, sometimes fire is kept in it, and a hole is left in the top for the smoke to escape.
We spent the night at Chuchigisk. Fortunately, at each station, a shelter was built on several posts, under which we usually slept, for it would be very unpleasant to sleep in a Yakut yurt. Poor Yakuts in the summer wear only a shirt and pants made from Dab’ (Chinese dyed canvas, thick and not strong), and when they get ready to ride horseback, they put leather shorts on over them.
A wasp stung me so painfully in the eye that I could not see for half an hour. When a horse steps on the nest of these insects, or feels it, it begins to buck with its hind legs, wave its tail and gallop
away. After a while I got so used to this that in such cases I would cover my face and wave a handkerchief, or hair from a horse’s tail tied to a stick.
To Porotova – 33 versts.
In our guide, the Cossack Kolmakov, we found a very adroit and diligent person. He is 28 years old, and he travels on horseback such amazing distances and at such a speed that sometimes for 6 or 7 days in a row he can cover 200 versts a day. His father is Yakut, but his mother Russian, for which reason he knows precisely the rites and customs of the Yakut people. I gathered a lot of such information from him, which I later compared with what I saw myself, or with what I heard from reliable people.
14 July.
To Churopchinsk – 22
Not long before our arrival, a Yakut, who lived 30 versts away, came here, stole 5 horses, and drove them to his place – but he was caught on the road. I wanted to know what would be done to him for this theft, but they said that he would be taken to the Prince, for these officers can only deal with unimportant cases; in others they must go to Yakutsk and escort the criminals there.
By the way, let me tell something of the government of the Yakuts. This people occupies a large strip of land, extending from the Stanavoi ridge to the west and northwest, to the mouth of the Lena, to the top of the Vilyui and other rivers flowing to the Lena, and even to the outskirts of the city of Turukhansk.
Their wealth consists in cattle and horses, which is why, in order not to be embarrassed for hayfields, needed for food for herds and flocks, the Yakuts never live in large villages, but ones consisting of two or three yurts. Several of these villages make up a lodging place, nochleg, which is governed by a Prince, or more commonly called Princeling. Several lodging places make up a Ulus, which is governed by a Headman. The office of Prince and Headman is not hereditary, but selective. Yakuts of one lodge call themselves Chzhonobut, and the Russians call them Rodniki, that is, as if they are all of one people. The Rodniki choose a Prince for themselves and accord him this dignity so long as he is well-behaved and does not demand too much; otherwise they choose a new one, but the old ones, however, are always distinguished from ordinary people. Not long ago, the Yakuts replaced one Prince, who had a gold medal and a velvet dress, granted by Emperor Paul. When he began to say that he should not be treated like the others, for he has excellent marks of the Sovereign’s favor, they told him that since the signs were granted by the Emperor, you should keep them as personal distinctions, but we do not need you for a Prince.
All the Princes of an Ulus choose one among themselves as Headman, who must serve 3 years; though for the most part they remain their entire lives. The choice is made in this way: They make a big box and open it up to hold as many small boxes as there are Candidates, assigning one for each nominee. Every Prince has a ball, which he puts where he wants; to whomever is given the most, he is the Headman.
In the Yakutsk district are 6 ulus, and in these nearly 40,000 Yakut, under the yasak [tribute paid to the Russians].
The whole night there was such a thick fog that beyond 3 sazhens it was impossible to see anything.
In the morning an old Yakut woman came to us and began to beg for alms for Christ’s sake. What makes you poorer than others? — I'm not poorer than anyone here. — Why did you ask for Christ’s sake? — For the fact that I am baptized and pray to God. — This is how they have a concept of faith!
We passed the Yakutsk cemetery. All the graves are scattered around a low valley and each is fenced off with a wooden frame with a flat or pointed roof. Nearby the trees are hung with horse and cow skins, with hooves and heads, as well as saddles, bridles, stirrups and other equestrian equipment, so that the deceased could ride horseback into the next world. The dead are laid in their best dress. At the funeral, all the relatives gather, they kill a horse or a cow, eat meat, at a nearby tree performing some other rituals of superstition.
Around 26 versts from Churopchinsk, we rode across a bridge spanning the river Tattye, which gives its name to the district it flows through. It runs not far from the mountain and falls into the Amga, but now it is almost dry and interrupted in many places.
To Arilakh – 33
Unaccustomed to riding, my legs and back were so sore that I often had to dismount from the horse and walk.
I happened to see many times on the way that the Yakuts, even in summer, carry hay and other luggage on wood sledges drawn by bulls.
On the shore of the lake, past which we rode, we saw a trough hung on a tree. This meant that when the Yakut Shamans cast spells in this place, they put a wooden image of the devil in the trough and let it go over the lake.
15 July.
To Lebegirirsk – 27 versts
In the morning a heavy rain fell, around noon it became lighter, and then it stopped altogether. This station was short one horse for us, and the Yakuts, instead of the horse, loaded an ox, on which they very often ride.
In every meadow there was an extraordinary multitude of grasshoppers.
To Melzhegeya – 27
The postilion who met us here said that many exiles (they are called Varnaks in Siberia) have been walking armed along the Okhotsk road in several gangs and robbing. He had encountered them on the Aldan River, but the robbers let him pass, perhaps because he had nothing to take.
To the Amga River – 26
At 9 in the evening we crossed the Amga, which flows into the Aldan. Now it is no more than 150 sazhens wide and shallow, but earlier, when it is wider and deeper, there is a transport on it. On the other side of the river is a station, that is, a cover under which passers-by stop. We were very happy with the good water. The bottom of the river is shallow stone with sand. Near the station there were a lot of red currants, completely ripe.
Along the Amga, 100 versts above this place, there is a settlement called Amginsk, where Rus have been settled for a long time for agriculture. I do not think that this is in good condition now, because the settlers adopted the customs of the Yakuts, speak their language and live in Yakut yurts, so only 4 Russian huts remained, and the house in which the voivode (chief) lived before the discovery of the province. In the time of the last voivode the following incident occurred in the vicinity of the settlement. Near the neighboring Yakut village, some animal unknown to the inhabitants appeared, which suddenly destroyed a lot of cattle. The Yakut who went to see it was also torn apart by it. Then others, not seeing the return of their comrade, went out with weapons, killed the beast and presented its hide to the voivode. According to the remaining description of that animal, it seems to have been a leopard which, surprisingly, came this far to the north, for animals of this kind are found no closer than the Chinese border.
16 July.
At midnight we left the station and at 2 o’clock stopped at a lake, in a small valley surrounded by forest. We pitched a tent under the tree, lit two fires near it, and began to cook food. The horses grazed. All this novelty pleased us, for it was our first nomadic camp.
Around the 43rd verst from Amga we crossed a bridge built on the river Nokha, which flows into the Aldan.
From Amga to Nokhinsk 47
The road between these stations was extremely narrow, due to the many trees that had fallen across it, the intertwined tree roots, and the potholes. And you can hardly drive with one horse because of the branches intertwined on both sides of the road. In addition currants, blueberries and strawberries came across on the way.
We reached a station at 10 o’clock in the morning. I fell off my horse, but I managed to pull my leg out of the stirrups and did not hurt myself so painfully that it would be difficult to continue riding. At an hour before midnight we stopped for the night.
17 July.
To the Aldan River – 33
At 1 o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the Aldan. The station is built on the other side of the river, which is more than half a verst wide.
We crossed in boats, and the horses were driven into the water. Aldan, having taken in many rivers flowing from the western side of the Stanavoi ridge, flows into the Lena. There are plenty of fish in Aldan, which were sold to us by the Cossacks, who caught them with bait. These Cossacks live to look after the post horses and to guard the state magazines, in which flour and various cargoes are stored when the Yakuts cannot immediately deliver them to Okhotsk.
Up to this time we could have milk, and sometimes fish. From here on, they say, we will have to be content with what we will take with us, for there is not a village before the Alakh-Yuna River (233 versts). The cover on poles placed at each station at least gave protection from the rains, but from now on, making our way to Okhotsk, its place will be taken by a tattered tent, with which the Office of the American Company supplied us. In addition, bears and varnaks will often force us to watch and worry.
In the next installment: Chapter II of Davydov’s narrative continues. Believe it or not, the easy part of their journey from Yakutsk to Okhotsk is now over. Our travelers will soon have to ford rivers multiple times, and it’s beginning to rain constantly too, so they’re always cold and wet. They’re also starting to worry that they might reach Okhotsk too late to sail to Alaska, which would mean wintering there and losing a year. But at least an encounter with a party of varnaks gives Khvostov an opportunity for a little swashbuckling.